Bokeria occupies a double-height space in the old city of Split — a room with chequerboard-tiled floors, Romanesque arched openings at the perimeter, and a mezzanine level behind a glass railing that gives the dining room a theatrical vertical dimension. The hanging installation above the central table — a cascade of glass beads on cables — is the room's signature: architectural without being decorative. The menu is contemporary Dalmatian: Adriatic fish cooked with restraint, Croatian ingredients given considered preparation. The wine list is serious about Dalmatian varieties — Pošip, Grk, Plavac Mali — with enough depth to reward attention. Bokeria is one of the more ambitious restaurants in the old city and operates at a level consistent with that ambition: not a casual table, but one worth the intention.
Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia