Cecconi's took the ground floor of a converted warehouse on Water Street in DUMBO when the neighbourhood was still finding its register, and the position it claimed — a terrace facing the East River with the Manhattan Bridge filling the northern view — has aged perfectly. The menu is Italian, reasonably well-executed, and not the point. The point is the terrace at dusk when the bridge lights come on over the water and Manhattan presents its waterfront to Brooklyn from the correct distance. A restaurant that earns the visit regardless of the food because the view is exceptional and the room understands it.
DUMBO, New York, United States