Pasticceria Cucchi, Milan — SÉRIF

Cucchi has been on Corso Genova since 1936, which means it predates the Navigli's transformation into the neighbourhood it now is. The marble counter is original; the pastry case is arranged without flourish. In the morning it functions as a neighbourhood bar in the Milanese sense — espresso at the counter, a cornetto from the previous hour's baking, a conversation that is over before the coffee is. By mid-morning the tables fill with people who have nowhere they need to be. The light is different then: softer, and longer on the west side of the room. The torta di tagliatelle is made correctly.

Porta Genova, Milan, Italy

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