A Taberna de Cunqueiro takes its name from Álvaro Cunqueiro, the Galician writer, journalist, gastronome, and mythographer — the author of Merlín e familia, one of the central works of 20th-century Galician literature, and a man who understood food and eating as part of the same attention to the world that produces good prose. The restaurant's sensibility reflects this: the menu cover is handwritten in calligraphic script on kraft paper, the room is wooden and unpretentious, the cooking is Galician without being folkloric. The associated space O Alpendre de Cunqueiro operates as a more informal ancillary — both run under the same kitchen intelligence. The octopus, the razor clams, and the Galician white wines are the correct order of business.
Ciudad Vieja, La Coruña, Spain