Tohru in der Schreiberei is chef Tohru Nakamura's restaurant in Munich, housed in a cellar space originally part of a historic secretariat building. The vaulted stone arches and warm amber lighting create a room that has the quality of a significant occasion without announcing it — the setting is intimate and the architecture does the work that in other restaurants a design team would have over-expressed. The kitchen works at the intersection of German and Japanese technique and flavour: the precision and seasonal rigour of both traditions in a menu that doesn't seek to resolve the dialogue but to use it productively. Three Michelin stars, which accurately represents the ambition and execution. Advance booking is essential and should be made several weeks ahead. The room at full service has the quality of concentration — guests focused on their plates, the pace unhurried, the kitchen's work arriving in a sequence that has been considered with care.
Altstadt, Munich, Germany